Schiaparelli is known for its mind-bending couture, so it's only appropriate that creative director Daniel Roseberry's latest ready-to-wear collection also incorporates an abundance of surreal details. Long well-respected but relatively little-known, the brand was thrust into the spotlight when Lady Gaga wore a custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture gown to sing the national anthem at President Joe Biden's inauguration. The gown proved to be a controversial choice, but that is how Elsa Schiaparelli would have liked it.
Schiaparelli, who founded the brand in 1927, was as much an artist as she was a designer. Channeling her fondness for the Dada and Surrealist art movements into her designs, Schiaparelli often collaborated with the likes of Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau on boundary-pushing clothing and accessories. Roseberry captures that spirit in the Fall/Winter 2021 ready-to-wear collection: cable knit sweaters are made more immodest by the addition of metallic gold leather breasts sewn on the front, hoods are blown to exagerrrated proportions, and looks are accessorized with sculptural gilded helmets. Denim is present as well-though in the form of a jumpsuit complete with oversized gold buttons in the shape of padlocks, noses, and ears-as is a sized-down version of the gilded dove brooch Gaga wore to the inauguration.